Opera at the Circus Maximus
The historic chariot-racing arena hosts a season of music against the backdrop of imperial Rome – By Claudio Lozzi
This summer, Rome’s Teatro dell’Opera brings opera, ballet, and concerts to the Circus Maximus for an open air festival framed by the evocative ruins of the ancient arena.
Located at the foot of the Palatine Hill, the Circus Maximus instantly conjures images of the chariot races seen in Ben-Hur (which was actually filmed at Cinecittà). In the time of Constantine, the Circus measured 600 meters in length and 200 meters in width, and could accommodate up to 300,000 spectators during competitions such as the Ludi Romani, attended by the highest authorities of the State.
According to legend, it was here that the sacred games in honor of the god Consus (Consalia) took place, during which the Roman men’s search for wives culminated in the abduction of the Sabine women. Originally constructed in wood, the Circus was later upgraded: under Agrippa, the chariot starting gates were rebuilt in brick, and the laps were marked by seven stone eggs, later replaced by bronze dolphins. Augustus added a central spine (spina), where he placed an obelisk of Ramses II brought from Heliopolis, now standing in Piazza del Popolo. Continuing this trend, Constantius II later installed a second obelisk from Thebes (of Thutmose III), which now stands in Piazza San Giovanni. Damaged several times by fire (sometimes deliberately, as during Nero’s reign) the Circus was eventually rebuilt in marble. However, due to centuries of material stripping, it has lost most of its original features. Today, it is recognizable mainly as a vast green depression in the urban landscape, shaded by umbrella pines and bordered by the ruins of imperial palaces.
From June 29 to July 31, the arena turns into a grand stage, hosting music, visually striking performances, and cinema. At the heart of the program is Aida by Giuseppe Verdi, alongside a rich lineup ranging from dance to live music: from the Roberto Bolle and Friends gala to Romeo and Juliet, Carmina Burana, and a video installation by Anagoor. Also featured is Gladiator by Ridley Scott, presented in a “film in concert” format, with the soundtrack performed live by the Orchestra and Chorus of the Rome Opera House.
